Saturday, January 30, 2016

The Story of Saigon (and others)


When I left Thailand for Vietnam, I never would've imagined how much I would change in just 6 months.  I've been slacking, to say the least, on my blogs, because of not only sheer laziness, but also the amount of teaching I've done.  They work you hard here, 5am mornings until 5pm nights definitely took a toll on me.
Back in mid-August 2015, I packed up my life and moved to another country, once again, without knowing what would unfold.  I didn't know much of the company I would be with, and thought, if it didn't work out, teaching jobs are a dime a dozen and it's nothing I haven't already been through before.  When I arrived, I was greeted by someone from my company who put me up in a dodgy little hotel and was told another teacher would be arriving shortly and be staying in the next room.  A few hours later, I heard a little tap tap tap on my door and open the door to this tall, South African ginger, Jennifer.  Over the next few days we quickly bonded as the two solo teachers, dodging in and out Saigon traffic and apartment hunting- which gave us the best views in Saigon, seriously.

Myself and Liz- another teacher awesome friend
Even after driving motorbikes in Thailand, nothing compares to the traffic of Saigon.  I had this (stupid) idea in my head I would be able to walk around, or be close enough to my school where I could take the public bus.  I quickly found out I would be teaching at more than one school, one about a 20-25 minute drive and the other a half hour away, depending on traffic.  I can still remember how scared and shaky I felt the first couple times I went out on my bike, and of course now, I can weave in and out like a ninja.
There are so many motorbikes and so much traffic, I've learned the best thing is to just go with the flow, disregard traffic laws, traffic lights and sidewalks are arbitrary and a suggestion.




Teaching was a trip at first.  I taught 5 grades which ranged from above average levels to students who didn't even know their name.  Grades 6, 8, 9, 10 and 11- I still can't decide which is worse- being a teenager or teaching them.  My all time favorite class (grade 6) always started my week off with a burst of energy and excitement.  It's not because they were good students, they were rambunctious and completely insane, but always brought so much joy into their work and still had the adorable childhood innocence.


I was so lucky to have my parents visit me a month after I moved here and show them around my new stomping ground- quite a leap from Chaiyaphum, Thailand.  I hadn't yet played tourist and being able to spend time with them was definitely a highlight.  From seeing the Chu Chi tunnels, War Remnants Museum, Mekong Delta tour, to playing with a giant python was amazing.
They came when I had a long holiday weekend, which was perfect timing- I was able to spend as much time with them before I would see them again in December for another family Christmas.
I know it scares the absolute bejesus out of them knowing I'm always off galavanting and exploring new countries, so I think they felt more at ease knowing I was safe and surrounded by awesome friends and not secretly a drug lord involved in an underground mafia ring.

Flash forward a few months and work burnout later, it was finally December, two weeks of work, then two weeks of vacation- which meant a much needed pollution relief and time to travel and go on the quest for the perfect selfie stick and minion backpack- both of which I found easily, because Asia.


Glimpse of KL in all its glory.


Jennifer and I rocking out the selfie stick




The first stop on my magical holiday trip was 4 days in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia with the ginge.  Immediately, we were in culture shock.  Coming from a country which smells of durian and exhaust to going to a country that smells like Indian curry and cologne, was a trip- also, sidewalks intended for walking and not filled with motorbikes was a trip.  Holy cow, KL should just change it's name to mall central.  KL had the most amazing public transportation of light rails, trains, and buses.  I swear, at every light rail stop, there was a mall.  After walking around a few malls, exploring the city and stumbling upon a botanical garden, we finally found the Patrones Towers- one of the biggest tourist attractions in the city with apparently remarkable views.  After trying to barter with tower security (Jennifer and I tried on 2 different occasions), we decided the price wouldn't be worth the view- especially given it was rainy season, and a cloudy view would be a waste.  The next best thing: walking around the park near the Patrones towers and taking pictures there- so off we went.
We ate so much naan bread, breakfast, lunch, and dinner, it took us almost a month to recover from our naan-hangover-it was so worth it.  I still have dreams about the delicious in KL.  As our quick 4 day trip came to an end, I found it hard to leave as the ginge was off on her excursion to Singapore, and I to Taiwan.  


The infamous Patrones Towers

KLCC park (the Patrones Towers are directly behind me)


















A long struggling story dealing with flights and airlines later, I finally found myself in the wonderful country of Taiwan. In another country with remarkable public transportation left me again, in culture shock. Immediately off the plane, I was being offered help from everyone around me- something I am not used to in Saigon, at all. There are buses that take you from the airport to main Taipei, and from there, you can take the underground rail to pretty much anywhere in Taipei. As I stand in the crowded main train terminal looking like a lost puppy, the nicest woman, who spoke no English, and only having the name of the stop I needed, pointed me in the right direction where I eventually landed in my hostel, greeted by another friend, whom I was traveling with. The perfect beginning to my Taipei trip- which turned out to be one of my favourite (surround yourself with Brits and South Africans enough and I start spelling like them) counties.


The next morning I found a free tour and begin exploring. I did almost no research before coming here and knew almost nothing about Taiwan's struggles and heartbreaking history in their short years as a country. From flip flopping between China's rule to Japan to back to China to an upcoming election, it's simply remarkable and inspiring to see how positive and kind they remain.
Peace Park in Taipei, Taiwan   

View of Plum Garden
A long day of touring, a dinner, sleep and morning tea later, once again, it was time to do more exploring.  This time to Plum Garden, a huge garden with in garden of sorts, just outside Taipei, in Xinbeitou, accessible by a few light rail rides away.  Hiking up a few hills and stairs later, left me completely speechless with all the beauty and a remarkable view. 
Immediately, I was intrigued by cute little statues around Plum Garden.  
These sculptures are inspired by Beitou's old witch legend and spiritual beliefs imagining whimsical beings dwell in the area in places invisible to the human eye- perhaps in the humid air or floating within the hot spring vapors. They are said to be playful and secretly watch out for the Beitou people everyday.
I could've spent all day in this garden, filled with hot springs and next to a National Park, both of which we ran out of time to see, as we were simply propelled by how fast our little legs could travel, and began to need fuel. One thing I'll say about the food- although delicious, they are one of the Asian countries that aren't big on spice-a major foreign concept to me.  
Beitou sculpture

Another day past and my Taipei trip was coming to a quick close, but I still had one more day for touring on my only planned excursion- a bike and walking tour around Taipei- of which I was extremely excited about. This is how eco friendly Taiepi is: they have rent a bikes around the city and they are so popular, you can buy a membership with public transport. Pure amazeballs.
Unlike Saigon, it was cold and wintery in Taipei, so much so, I had to buy a jacket. Of course, "cold" being about 22C (72F) which is at freezing temperature if you are used to a daily temp of at least 90.
It was a perfect "Portland" day, meaning cloudy, with a slight drizzle- and I enjoyed every second of it.
After biking a bit around New and Old Taipei, we parked our bikes and started an oh so steep hike up Elephant Mountain. As animalistic as this mountain sounds, there have never been, nor are there any elephants. From what I understood, it's just normal culture for Taiwanese to name the hiking trails after certain animals. This hike was basically a zillion tiny steps (not more between 3-5k) straight up into the sky. The trail was super clean, like everywhere in Taiepi. This hike took us up to the best view in all of Taipei, a very well deserved hike.
View from Elephant Mountain. 
As night came, we quickly rushed to catch a night bus to the airport for our very early morning flight back to HCMC where I would have a day before I jet-setted back on another flight- this time to see my brother and parents in Phu Quoc, Vietnam, an island, for Christmas.
On top of Elephant Mountain. Taipei 101 building is directly ahead known for it's observation deck.


After being reunited with all of Saigon's glory, I quickly threw crap into a backpack, which hilariously enough, ended up bringing more with me to the beach than I did to Malaysia and Taiwan, hopped on a plane and off to Phu Quoc I went. My favourite South African ginger came along with and we traded traveling stories on the short flight.


"Wait, let me get my selfie stick!"


Everyone who knows the Greenfield/Eejima family, knows we're all a bit cray, so I knew immediately when I saw my family, they'd be all decked out in Santa hats and excitement- they were. Not to worry, I brought my selfie stick to be sure to document our fabulousness.
After a quick lunch and a complicated situation with the hotel, we plopped ourselves on a beach to relax after our rough week of traveling.


 
Not only did we relax, we also wanted to see more of the island, so, being experienced

motorbike riders, Jennifer and I made sure the pack stayed impact. My brother and dad had only gone on one drive before our trip around the island. My mom rode on the back of my bike, which to her surprise I was a fabulous driver- no shame.
Luckily, we had a tour guide, so we didn't have to plan anything, just drive, relax, and enjoy the island vibe.
We drove threw some terrain- dirt roads, and over wobbly wooden bridges, all very bad ass.

definitely drove over this bridge
My mom likes to think she was also driving, but we are all looking very badass. 
A wonderful Christmas vacation with the family full of laughter, and surprisingly no drama, we were off again back to Saigon, this time with my baby brother in tow, his first time in HCMC to celebrate my birthday, New Years, extra travel, and to see me, of course.
Mekong Delta Tour


Off I took the not-so-little-baby brother on tourist attractions: Chu Chi tunnels, a Mekong Delta tour, museums, everything I did with my parents and then some. First stop was a Mekong Delta tour, which took us from a medium sized boat, to a short hike, to a tuk-tuk to the cutest little mini ride down a stream. Glad I brought my selfie stick, would've been hard to document all the important selfies.
The Mekong Delta connects all the way from Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Myanmar- it's huge, big on fishing and the obvious- tours.




The next adventure tour was to the Chu Chi tunnels: a way for the Vietnamese to convene, escape, and live during the Vietnam War era.
Chu Chi Tunnels 
We ended up taking a van to first a rice paper factory which was also a pig farm, got to play with piglets, and finally made our way to the tunnels which were about a 2 hour drive away from the city.
Although I had been here once before, it's always different to hear things a second time, if not for a reminder, but to relearn what I had tuned out.
New Years came and went, and it quickly became time for school to start back up and to go back to my teacher life. My brother left, and it finally hit me I only had 4 weeks left of my stay in Vietnam (as I had originally only

planned on staying here 6 months from the getgo).
Everything that mattered, worked out perfectly. Even though working here may not have been the highest of highlights due to simple teaching politics and overwork burnout, I have met some fabulous international friends who are as crazy (if not crazier) as I am, share my obsession for travel, delicious delivery takeout (ginge), witty banter and caffeine.
As I write this, on my last weekend in Saigon, clothes sprawled all over my floor as I'm still not yet packed, it still has not hit me that I will no be seeing some of my favourites everyday.
Myself, and the gingers: "Africa" and "Lizzard." I'm an honoury ginger, obvs. 


My future plans have yet to be decided, but as of right now, I plan on touring Sapa-Vietnam, Myanmar, and Bali before finally trekking on my year and a half trip back to the States, only to hopefully, be leaving again in June.


Life has a way of creeping up on you, and within this past year and a half, (even in the past 6 months), I have learned to never plan anything concrete, as life is constantly changing- but always for the better. Keep it real, Saigon.







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